NORELL, NORMAN

(1900-1972)

Norell was born in Noblesville, Indiana, the son of a haberdashery store owner. In 1919, he attended theParsons School of Designand began his career designing costumes for the theater and film. From 1928 to 1940, Norell designed for Charles Armour and forHattie Carnegie. From 1941 until 1960, Norell formed a partnership withdesignerTeal Traina and designed a collection of dresses, suits, and eveningwear under the label Traina-Norell. In 1961, upon Traina's death, he opened his own business and was known for his attention to quality and craftsmanship in the Frenchcouturetradition. In fact, he was often called the AmericanBalen-ciaga. Signature looks of Norell include his eveningwear "mermaid dresses," his use of polka dots, sailor collars, and oversized bows, and his expertly tailored trouser suits. He was the first recipient of theCotyAmerican Fashion Critic's Award in 1943 and was the first president of theCouncil of Fashion Designers of America(CFDA) in 1965. The company continued after Norell's death with designs by the American designer Gustave Tassel, but it closed four years later.