MCCARDELL, CLAIRE

(1906-1958)

Born in Frederick, Maryland, Claire McCardell attended Hood College before pursuing a career in fashion that began at theParsons School of Design, followed by a one-year stint in Paris. Upon graduation in 1928, McCardell held several jobs ranging fromfit modelto sales assistant before landing a job as adesignerforknitwear manufacturerSol Pollack. In 1929, she met Robert Turk and became his assistant at Townley Frocks, until his tragic death in 1932.After his death, McCardell was named chief designer where she stayed for most of her career, later becoming a partner in the company. McCardell's design philosophy pioneered the concept known as theAmerican Look, that is, uncomplicated, comfortable clothing for the casual American lifestyle. Her design philosophy was in sharp contrast to her European counterparts of the 1940s, whose clothes were fitted, fussy, decorated, and tailored. Having spent a year in Paris, McCardell gained firsthand experience about French fashion,haute couture, and the complexity of garment construction which is why she chose to rebel and to create clothes that were affordable, relaxed, and had mass-market appeal. McCardell took an innovative approach to fashion and was the originator oflifestyle-dressing. She is known for using worker and farmer uniforms as inspiration and was also famous for her wrap and tie styles. She created the timeless and highly copied Monastic dress, a bias cut shift dress. Her "five easy pieces" concept was the foundation for today's mix-and-matchsportswearcategory and her "popoverdress" was the chic precursor to the "housedress." Perhaps her most remembered designs were those inwooljersey which were seasonless, casually chic and easy-care. However, other fabric choices such asdenim, gingham andcottoncalico demonstrated her unpretentious approach to fashion, yet were considered quite stylish. Before, during, and immediately following World War II, McCar-dell and other American designers such asTina LeserandBonnie Cashinwere promoted byLord&Taylor'sthen-president,Dorothy Shaver. The American Look began to receive international acclaim after the war and eventually became the catalyst for the sportswear industry as we know it today. Before her death in 1958, McCardell was featured on the cover ofTimemagazine and authored a book,What Shall I Wear?

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